
Today was the total opposite of yesterday. We woke early and got right to work. Tooni and Paul were in the water first thing after breakfast and Lucy and I were standing by topside ready to analyze, sort and catalogue anything they brought up from underneath the ice. The Arctic is an amazingly diverse place with complex ecosystems that we are only beginning to understand. Most people think of the Arctic as a white lifeless desert, where few creatures exist apart from the Polar Bear and the walrus. That couldn’t be further from the truth, as countless animals have adapted to live on, in, or beneath the ice.

As in other parts of the oceans, the basis for these food chains are the small organisms, the phyto-plankton and algae that in turn feed the larger creatures, such as the copepods and the amphipods which provide a food source for countless other animals from fish to seals to birds. The goal of today’s work was to collect some of the amphipods and copepods, (tiny crustaceans) that live in this environment. While there are several different species, some benthic (bottom dwelling), some pelagic (free swimming), we were interested in the sympagic species, the ones that live with the ice. Just a few minutes into the dive we heard over the comms that despite the lousy visibility, they were having success and as soon as the dive was over, a fine mesh net with a funnel catchment area at the bottom of it was passed up to us. The temperature is below freezing and with the wind chill it had to be hovering below zero, so everything was difficult.

Lucy and I flushed the net and canister into a bucket and began sorting. In all, we recorded 4 or 5 species, including one that, according to our biologist Jurgen, was not recorded by science. A short interval for lunch and the divers were back in the water and more specimens were handed to us. Well over a dozen animals were caught and recorded, valuable information that we are contributing to the Census of Marine Life, a global biological study that is attempting to collect information on as many species as possible. Our concern is that these fragile ecosystems are changing and we still lack a baseline understanding of their dynamics. Without such an understanding, it is nearly impossible to tell exactly what is happening, let alone how to work to re-establish balance.

By the time the diving was done, everyone was cold and tired but Lucy and I still had a lot of work to do. This was our last day on the ice and we still had to do our ice drilling. NASA has been conducting research via satellite on ice thickness and distribution for several decades now. However, they always need to confirm their findings from space with real data on the ground. Our job was to measure the thickness of the ice flow surrounding us and determine if it was first year ice or multiyear ice. First year ice is less than 9 feet thick and multiyear ice can be several times thicker than that. Multiyear ice is good, because it means that the ice is not melting in the summer. Unfortunately, our findings indicated that we were indeed moored to first year ice, a bad sign. We had to drill in four locations and take an average of the depths and the whole process took about 5 hours.
Half way through, we were able to take a pause and enjoy a brilliant dinner. The crew made a special treat for us today, a BBQ, reindeer and baked potatoes! It was fantastic and I only mention it because, well, it was that good. It must be the American in me but there are few things better than a good BBQ and nice cold beer and how many times does that happen north of 80 degrees latitude.

After dinner we carried on drilling and by the time we were done it was 11:30PM. I don’t think that I have ever been so cold. It was good work though and Lucy and I were both delighted to be doing more real science and contributing to our global knowledge of this incredible place.
It is our last night, we will be leaving in the next hour or so and as I sit here, I am overwhelmed by a sense of sadness. I do not want to leave this place. Over the last few days I have come to appreciate its austere and mysterious beauty, its harshness. An unforgiving landscape, after all our work it is clear that the Arctic holds more life, more wonder, and more majesty than I ever could have imagined. One gets the feeling that a lifetime would not be enough to even scratch the surface of this place. As I walked back to the boat tonight, the snow crunching under my feet, each step I took got heavier and heavier, the weight of this experience, of this place was finally wearing down upon me. The Arctic is greater than any of us, and it deserves more than the ignorant disdain with which it has been treated by humankind. Only in the last few decades have we begun to understand how deeply our actions are affecting this frozen world, and only now, when it is becoming too late, are we finally waking up to the reality that as goes the Arctic, so goes the rest of the planet, it may seem a million worlds away but the ice is with us every day.
To view all of Philippe’s video blogs from Oceans, visit EarthEcho’s Youtube channel: www.youtube.com/earthecho1
To learn more about the BBC/Discovery Channel co-production Oceans, visit: www.bbc.co.uk/oceans
These blogs are the express product of Philippe Cousteau and represent his own experiences and opinions during the expedition. The views and opinions within are in no way representative of the BBC and do not necessarily represent the views of the BBC.
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